Biking in Bariloche

My fitness levels were a mystery until today. I have engaged in physical activity exactly zero times since arriving in Argentina three months ago. Today changed that, with mixed results.

I have been back on the backpacking circuit now for nearly two weeks. Me and an amigo from BA, Ramin, took five days to hit Cordoba (shocking weather, but a pretty city), and Mendoza. Mendoza was great, it produces 70% of Argentinean wine so the done thing was to complete a wine tour and check out the city. Both of which we did. Malbec really is a sensational wine, and it’s home is Mendoza. It is also unfathomably cheap here in Argentina. I bought a bottle at the winery which cost 55 pesos (about AU$6). This was one of the ‘higher end’ wines in Argentina, and it was delicious.

Moving right along to the point of this long-delayed blog entry, I left Ramin who was bound for Chile, and took the 17 hour bus to the outdoor capital of Argentina, Bariloche. It is in the south of Argentina and is right at the beginning of Patagonia in the Lake District. The hostel that had been recommended to me by everyone I spoke to did not disappoint. It was on the tenth floor of an admittedly ugly building, but the views were absolutely sensational.

Bariloche is situated on the biggest lake in the area, Lago Nahuel Huapi, and the hostel commanded views of the lake all the way across to snow capped mountains on the far side. Added to that, the hostel had buena honda (good vibes) and has been voted the best hostel in Argentina by Hostelworld and Tripadvisor for 2014. The view really got me in the mood to get outside, and I prayed that there would be good weather the next day so I could get my hike on. With this in mind, know that as much as I like the idea of hiking, I have not really done anything more than maybe a three hour walk since being here. Which went alright, but I couldn’t see myself doing anything more than 5km in a single stint.

In the morning, I woke at 7:30 to pitch darkness outside, the sun did not rise until 9am, but what a sunrise it was! I asked the receptionist about what hike/excursion was going to be best for the day and he immediately recommended hiring a bike from a place about 20km away and doing a 27km round trip through the mountains and forests and around the lakes. Honestly, I was very disappointed. I hate bikes. I am not sure why. Maybe it is because everyone else in my family has done the Great Victorian Bike ride, and I haven’t. Maybe it is because I am just a lazy shit who would rather drive to work and whilst hating the cyclists that get in the way on my road. I just don’t like bikes. I had very little intention on completing this activity and fully expected myself to drop out and recurse to commit to such a demanding activity.

When the sun finally got up, I got a bus to my first stop; a chairlift that gave stunning panoramic views around the region. It was spectacular. After a couple of hours there, it was midday and decision time. I walked to the bike hire place and apprehensively asked about bike hire. Whilst doing this I stressed that I was unfit and had zero mountain biking experience, both of which were extremely true. To demonstrate how indecisive I was about the prospect of biking for 4-5 hours; I put the poor bike-renter man through the trouble of explaining every single alternative to hiring a bike. For example, I asked, ‘where are the nearest nice walks I can do?’, ’I hear there is a golf course nearby, is it good?’ and the old classic; ‘Won’t it rain today?’. He went through other walking options and he pointed out the two golf courses nearby as well as pointing out to me that the sky was a very clear blue with zero clouds in sight. This was extremely kind of him considering there was not a cent in it for him if I chose golf or a hike.

Finally, I decided to sit on it and think for fifteen minutes while he helped other more assured cyclists choose their bikes and take off. I noticed their physiques and compared myself to see whether I had the potential they had. There was a lady who looked like all she did was work out; she was lean, fit and healthy. She also appeared to be about 5 months pregnant. Not to worry. Her partner was almost identical except he was a male and very un-pregnant. I figured they both probably had me covered in endurance, but I would back myself to be faster than the pregnant woman and therefore her partner who would presumably stay somewhere close to her. Shit, I was running out of excuses. F*** it I thought. I’lll do it. Now for those reading this who think I am an abysmally lazy person who is scared of pushing themselves to the limits of physical exertion (and by that I mean a 27km ride on asphalt roads). You are probably right.

I took off at 12:45ish knowing that I had to be back before 6pm. I figured this meant I had to ride at approximately 5.6km per hour, which is slightly slower than the average person walks. Tough gig. I took off like a cut cat. Did I mention that there were mountains? The first incline reared its ugly head far too soon and reminded my heart, lungs, legs, and arse (bike seats are really, really hard, another reason I hate bikes) that exercise was not an enjoyable pastime. I was awfully close to perishing after the first 2km, but I got through that. In the end, I got around the circuit in about 4 hours. I can safely say that it was the best decision I have made to have a crack at something I wasn’t sure I would enjoy/ have the capability of doing. The scenery was absolutely stunning. The greenery of the forests on the mountains, coupled with towering snow-capped peaks and the stillness of the lakes below gave endless picturesque moments that really take you’re breath away. I realise that is an absolute cliché, but it is absolutely true. I stopped probably 7-8 times along the way just to a) catch my breath and, b) admire everything and soak it in as much as I could. The amount of times I said to myself; ‘Ahh the serenity,’ was countless. If people don’t get that reference, then watch The Castle. Great movie.

Tonight I am staying another night in Bariloche, hitting the town with a friendly Irish chap I met. Apparently there is a national bus strike planned for tomorrow, so my plans to head to a different city (San Martin de los Andes) have been scrapped and I’ll stay another night here. Not the end of the world really, there are plenty of hikes to do, so depending on how I pull up from the bike ride (poorly I imagine), I’ll most likely do a little stroll somewhere. My only other interesting news is that I have 10 days before I must be back in Buenos Aires to catch a flight (that I have not booked yet) to Salvador in Brazil to begin the World cup experience!

Sorry it’s been a while between drinks (blog posts). Being back on the road again is great, but it is time consuming. Also there has been a blackout in Bariloche for the past 2 days with internet. I love Argentina.

Till next time!!

Hugh

‘El camino se hace al andar’

(The path is made for walking)

P.S. I just woke up in the morning to attempt to post this blog, and apparently the power is out in all of Bariloche, and there is a nation wide bus strike. Incredible.